Barbara Tamburini, the famous award-winning oeonologist, who designed and oversaw the development of Villa Cosmiana’s wines and who has recently represented Italy again at the Concours Mondial de Bruxelles, is an uncompromising judge for the wines submitted to her and a severe procurator for those she herself has designed. For Barbara, a wine has to be an exceptional product without defects and it is her role as an oenologist on the jury to point out any shortcomings: from that point of view, her judgment in three key points – eyes, nose, mouth – is final.
When she reviews Villa Cosmiana’s wines, it is the same ceremony: first, a visual inspection in search of the slightest impurity and the slightest trace of colour deterioration; then the nose, cautiously at first mindfull of animal odours a poorly made or poorly preserved wine can suddenly reveal, then, once reassured, with a deep breath she uncovers the dominant flavours, the discreet nuances and the hidden notes a wine can reveal. Finally, she takes a sip with a long aspiration similar to a snorkeling exercise which will reveal possible imbalances, potential textural defects and lack of length in the mouth.
If all goes well, with a sigh of relief, she gratifies you with “it’s a good wine!” and gives you her three notes (eyes, nose, mouth) like three shots. Yesterday, when reviewing Fattoressa Maddalena 2021, our most recent oak-vinified Trebbiano vintage, her notes arrived like fireworks: 9 out of 10 for its beautiful pefect golden-yellow colour, 9.5 for its aromas of yellow peach, its citrus nuances and notes of peppered vanilla and 9.5 finally for its intensity, its elegance and rich length in the mouth.
This time she didn’t say “it’s a good wine”, she said “It’s a remarkable wine”.